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2023年8月13日 星期日

born of fire

Out of need or curiosity


man has learned much about the Earth on


which he is both guest and prisoner


Often baffled in his brief journey


through time


he has found reassurance in the


order revealed in nature


the recurring sequence of the seasons


the symmetry in storm


Yet nothing has lessened his terror


when nature seems to turn against him


when the Earth shudders and


explodes in fire


making rubble of all he has built


"Twenty thousand people dead;


anywhere from fifty thousand


to one hundred


and fifty thousand injured..."


"If that's it,


there's a CCP there


The communication may go bad


but that's the angle they ought to go."


"There's two more in there."


Against the sudden blows of


an adversary


that often strikes without warning


some have tried to create defenses


Powerless to prevent eruption


or earthquake


they seek to diminish its toll


Others light candles of faith


seek safety in prayer


Today new candles light the dark


instruments whose beams are reflected


from distant objects


or catch signals from outer space


to measure the smallest movements


of the Earth's surface


Now man has devised new concepts


of the forces altering


our planet


forces that move the continents


twist the globe's thin crust


build vast mountain ranges


even beneath the sea


Like all living things


Earth is in ceaseless change


Born of fire, it too is being


transformed day by day


Once this was blank ocean the cold


storm-swept Atlantic off the


southern coast of Iceland


Then, in fiery eruption during


the winter of 1963


the island of Surtsey began to


emerge from the sea


Today its single square mile of ash


and lava forms one of


the newer additions


to the land surface of the globe


Yet this virgin terrain is


no longer wasteland


Already life has found it


Already seeds borne by wind


and wave have taken root in the ash


and birds have begun to


nest along the cliffs


A closed preserve to casual visitors


the island has become a


living laboratory


Here scientists from distant


countries can study the ways


by which life tests


and gradually seizes a new domain


Among them is Dr. Robert Ballard, geologist


from the Woods Hole Oceanographic


Institution on Cape Cod


"The story I often tell to try


to get across the point


that the Earth really is alive


if you were to interview a


butterfly


standing on a branch of a sequoia tree


Now, a butterfly lives for


only a few days


and a sequoia tree can live


for over a thousand years


And if you were to ask that butterfly


Do you perceive the object on


which you are standing


as being alive?


And the butterfly would say,


of course not


I've been here all my life five days


and the tree hasn't done a thing


Same problem with the human being


If you were to ask a human being


perhaps one that's lived


a hundred years


if they perceive the Earth


which is over four


and a half billion years in age


as being alive


they'd probably say


Of course not. I've been here


all my life


and it hasn't done a thing.'


But the Earth really is a


very dynamic object


In fact, I think of it as


a living organism."


Like Surtsey, Earth too is an island


not in the North Atlantic


but in the vaster sea of space


In time beyond the measure of


man's brief experience


it too is in slow and ceaseless change


Some two hundred million years ago


its landmasses formed a single


continent scientists call Pangea


Then slowly, Pangea's fracturing


plates began to move apart


like pieces of a vast jigsaw puzzle


gradually assuming the shapes


and arrangement we recognize


on maps today


Riding upon a semiplastic layer



of Earth's fiery interior


the ocean floors and continents


that form its crust


or lithosphere are in continuing motion


Through the continents seem


stationary to living populations


they move an inch or more each year


The friction occurring along the


plate margins


is often marked by earthquakes


and volcanic eruption


Sometimes, as in California's San


Andreas Fault


the opposing plates grind against


each other in a sideways


or lateral motion called translation


It is when a section of the fault


locks, builds up tension


then abruptly releases


that major earthquakes occur


In other areas such as Japan


in a movement known as subduction


the edge of one crustal plate slowly


slides beneath another


causing volcanic activity and tremors


Along the 46,000 mile Mid


Ocean Ridge


in an action called spreading


molten rock


or magma, emerges through fissures


in the ocean floor


soon congealing in new submerged crust


Sometimes, as in Iceland


and its offshore islands of Surtsey


and Heimaey


the action has created


new land above the sea


Barely two hundred miles south


of the Arctic Circle


on the fiery seam still building


Iceland itself


Heimaey is accustomed to change


Port or the fleet that fishes


the abundant waters nearby


its only town of Vestmannaeyjar


has seen many a storm


take its toll of men and ships


Hardy descendants of the Vikings


who colonized the island more


than a thousand years ago


its people long have learned to


live with uncertainty


to meet risk and hazard


with a cheerful face


Each summer


by long-standing tradition


the entire population moves


out of town


on a three-day community holiday


It is a gathering that harks


back to Viking times


when villagers assembled to


review the spoken laws


by which they lived


On the grassy floor of an



ancient volcanic crater


they build a tent city where the


people of the town rediscover


each other in a quite different setting


Side by side, they celebrate


many things


home rule


won from Denmark more than a century ago


the inheritance of their Viking past


their survival of dangers


that sometimes rise from


the Earth itself


At midnight


young men set fire to a great wooden


structure built on the hillside


As the flames flare against the dark


they summon varied emotions


among the watchers


To their Nordic forefathers fire


brought warmth in the numbing cold


It was a symbol of life, of rebirth


But the people of Heimaey


have long known


that it also can bring destruction


and death


In the winter darkness of


January 1973 it brought disaster


Just beyond the town's edge a fissure


cracked the earth


abruptly spewing molten lava and


ash hundreds of feet into the air


Roused from their beds


by the sudden threat


most of the population was evacuated


to the nearby mainland


but volunteers would fight a five-month


battle with the new volcano


now called Eldfell, "Fire Mountain."


Within a week Eldfell


had raised a black


smoldering cone six hundred


feet high


and covered the town in ash


More than a hundred buildings


had been burned


or crushed under the advancing wall


of lava


In early February the lava threatened


to block the entrance to the harbor


Desperately, emergency teams fought


to dam the flow


by hardening the lava


with great streams of cold seawater


At last, by heroic effort


the harbor was saved


But as the eruption continued


through ensuing months


the lava would add almost one


square mile to the island


while much of the town lay buried


under cinders and ash


It would take years to dig out


But at last the precincts of the


4



dead are tidy again


Elsewhere in Iceland life goes on


Under the shadows of the volcanoes


that remain a perpetual enigma


farmers gather crops, prepare


for the winter to come


They are doing more


Boldly, Icelanders are making use of


the very forces that threaten them


In the north of the mainland


near the Krafla volcano


they are attempting to harness the


heat of a great geothermal field


to power homes and


industrial installations


Recent eruptions have reminded


Icelanders of the unpredictability


of the powers they are trying


to employ


With Dr. Haraldur Sigurdsson


vulcanologist from the University


of Rhode Island


Dr. Ballard visits a site where


recent lava flow


has threatened a newly-built


electric power plant


"There's the power plant below


us here


and if you look over this way..."


"Yeah. You can see the recent flows."


"The entire caldera, recent lavas..."


"Now the flows that were what


earlier this year, are down there?"


"Yes. And you can see the steam


defining the fissure


that's been erupting during the


last five years


and the black lava flows that have


been coming out."


"So if, let's say, there were another


eruption right along the caldera


where we see the fissure opening up


the lava could just come down


this valley


and go right around the corner


to the power plant."


Icelanders invested in the


costly geothermal power plant


because the field had lain dormant


for over two hundred years


Begun in 1975 as an alternative


to a hydroelectric dam


the plant was almost immediately


threatened


by a series of violent eruptions


that brought the lava flow within


a mile and a half


Trying to discern a possible


pattern in the Krafla volcanic activity


scientists keep watch on the plant


and the surrounding area


for ominous signs


5


Here one of the monitoring


team checks


for any ground tilt


which could unbalance


and destroy the turbines


In a field near the plant


he checks daily


for signs of subterranean activity


measures any possible change


in the gap


between two pipes planted on opposite


sides of a fissure


Like a serpent's back rising


above the sea


the steaming crest of the Mid-Ocean


Ridge stretches across Iceland


Here Ballard and Sigurdsson visit


the site of the recent lava


flow that is still cooling


"We're in the fissure that erupted


six months ago."


"So everything we are walking on


is less than six months in age?"


"That's right. And it's still


cooling off here


That's why it's still like a sauna bath."


"It's about as fresh as you can get


short of having it red."


"Yes. Let's take a look around here."


"Now, if you can sit without


cutting your pants


It's even warm


Now, I understand that when the


eruption began to take place


a tourist from Denmark


was standing right


where the fissure opened up and was..."


"Quite close to the area


where the crust split


and rifted apart and the


lava started to squirt up."


"So he just took off."


"Actually, I understand the lava


was moving quite rapidly here."


"How fast?"


"Up to ten meters per second."


"So you'd have to be a... Let's see


the world's record for


the 100-yard dash is..."


"9.8."


"So it's running about as fast as


the world's record


Hope the Dane was a fast runner."


"He was. He got away. So far there


have been no casualties."


"Before this took place


this area had been quiet for a long


long time


This is why they thought it was safe


to build the power plant."


"This area has been without volcanic


activity for about 250 years


And therefore, there was


the general feeling


that there wasn't an imminent danger


6



and it was a worthwhile risk to


take to start constructs


of a geothermal power station


in this central volcano."


"And they've invested what?"


"Oh, probably about 60 million dollars"


"So 60 million dollars is


really in peril then


if another major eruption occurs here


and this time it does go over


that pass and down into the basin?"


"Well, that's always a possibility


But in Iceland there is...


Iceland is a country


where you have to live with


the elements."


In patient calm, Icelanders


accept the gamble nature


has imposed upon them


the frigid climate


the sweeping storms, the hidden


threat beneath their feet


Even as they keep a wary eye


on the dangerous giant


who has built the very island on


which they live


they use his heat to warm their


cities and homes


even their indoor gardens a kind


of compensation


for the risks they philosophically endure


In winter darkness they take


light from the subterranean depths


Warmed by the hidden furnace of


the Earth itself


vegetables ripen in the arctic cold


In the volcano's fiery breath


flowers bloom


Yet the risk remains


Hardly a year after eruptions


threatened the power installation


Sigurdsson returned to Krafla


as the restless giant stirred


and became active


Once more the lava flow approached


within one-and-a-half miles of


the electric turbines


Though the fiery fountains


gradually subsided


the eruption raised the ground


level to provide a slope


for future lava flows to travel


toward the power plant


For the present the Krafla


installation is secure


But Icelanders know that eventually


they many have to pay the price


of living on the edge of creation


Sometimes the action of the


Mid-Ocean Ridge


brings surprisingly opposite effects


In Iceland its slow spreading


process over millions of years


7




has created the great island on


which the people live


Far southeastward


along the nearly 3,000-mile furrow


of Africa's Great Rift Valley


the spreading action is slowly


but inexorably opening the heart


of a continent


In measurable time to come


eastern Africa will be detached


from its mother continent


and this dusty desert landscape


will be an ocean floor


Already, in the Afar Triangle


at the Horn of Africa the process


has begun the sea is invading


the land


At Djibouti's Ghoubet-Al-Kharab


an inland extension of the Gulf


of Aden


the sea is temporarily delayed


by a narrow barrier of small volcanic


hills sealing off Lake Assal


But as magma seeps through


fissures in the Earth's crust


and the seven-mile rift widens


and sinks


the sea inevitably will pour


into the lowlands beyond


Already seawater from


Ghoubet-Al-Kharab


has begun to work its way downward


through cracks and


subterranean channels


undergoing substantial


chemical change


as it penetrates the heated


rock layers below


With Dr. Jean-Louis Cheminee


of the French National Center


for Scientific Research


Ballard descend into a recently


active fissure through


which a small flow of seawater


reaches the distant lake


"So this is the sea coming in, right?"


"Yes, by a system of fissures."


"This is where the water


that we see on the other side


of the rift


going into Lake Assal originates from?"


"Yes."


"So it comes in from the sea..."


"...from the sea and crosses the rift


by the fissures inside the mountain..."


"...and out the other side."


"Yes."


"Now, was this fissure


in existence in 1978?"


"Yes, yes."


"It just widened?"


"Just widened."


"Because a lot of these rocks


are just perched


as if they're ready to come down."


"And the car here - just here..."



8



"Yeah, well, we should move the car."


"So we go like this."


"So we'll go across the..."


"Not across exactly like this. No."


"We go across this area, right?


Now how long will it take us to


get to Assal?


If we went from here all


the way across


went across that flat


desert-like area


how long would it take to get there?"


"Maybe six hours."


"Six hours."


"Yeah, six hours


Terrible road. Six, six and a half."


In torrid heat that reaches more


than 130 degrees Fahrenheit


the water here and in the Rift Valley


is often reduced to a caustic brine


"I'm standing 500 feet below


sea level


near the shore of Lake Assal."


"The ocean is only six miles away


If it weren't for these young lava


flows filling the valley floor


I'd be under water right now


In fact, the ocean is


trying to do that


As rifting develops in the valley


these deep fissures start to form


This lets water travel beneath


the valley


through the fissures


and it can enter Lake Assal


along this outlet


In fact, there are several of


them in the valley."


"At the present moment it's so


hot that most of the seawater


that comes in evaporates


leaving the salt behind


But as rifting continues


more and more water will pour


through these fissure systems


until the sea claims


this entire area


as the ocean penetrates deeper


and deeper into the


continent of Africa."


Here, as in Iceland, the spreading


action creates new crust


Elsewhere, in compensation


the distant edges of an expanding


plate must be destroyed


Outpost of Asia


Japan's island chain bears the shock


of the Philippine


and Pacific Plates as they thrust


beneath the Eurasian Plate


in a massive subduction zone


In the deep ocean trenches off Japan


the aging plates plunge back into


Earth's molten interior


causing powerful disturbances




9



The mists here are dragon's breath


the hissing steam of Japan's 20,000


hot springs


and forty active volcanoes


With a long history of


destructive earthquakes


Japan has begun a massive effort


to prepare for the future


In Shizuoka Prefecture near Tokyo


school children take lessons


in reading, writing


and catastrophe learning the skills


that may save their lives


In this temple to the victims


of a great disaster


memory and reality are like


the mismatched faces


of an earthquake fault


Here survivors come to witness


again the day a world ended


search again for faces that exist


only in old men's dreams


Just before noon on Saturday


September 1, 1923


an earthquake registering 7.9 on the


Richter scale struck Tokyo


shaking the earth for a full


five minutes


Ignited by hot coals thrown


from stoves against paper walls


and straw matting


the city burst into flame


As the people fled into the streets


they converged on the river


From opposite banks refugees started


across the wooden bridges


only to meet head on in midspan


Surrounded by walls of fire


with no escape


the fleeing mass was locked


in panic and chaos


Next day two-thirds of Tokyo lay


in smoldering black ash


and more than 140,000 persons


were dead


Today the Japanese are building


more than temples to the dead


Fearful of a predicted recurrence


of the great Kanto quake


thirteen million persons in the Tokyo


and nearby Tokai areas participate


in a vast drill in


which every citizen is learning to


play a role


Public communications center


during a crisis


NHK television relays information


from the Japan Meteorological


Agency, or JMA


Here a vast warning system keeps


constant watch


through scores of seismic stations


and a 125-mile line of


seismic monitors


along the floor of Suruga Bay



10



probable epicenter of the


expected quake


At the first sign of


unusual activity


JMA instantly alerts the head of a


six man committee of seismologists


Known as the Hanteikai


this team quickly evaluates


the information


and the prime minister is notified


While police, firemen


and other public employees


take their posts to prevent general


confusion or panic


there is a delay of 30 minutes


before a warning is broadcast


Each of the Tokai region's cities


and towns


has a municipal


disaster plan


and through drills most people


have learned the precise steps


required after a warning


Turning off gas and electricity


citizens secure doors and cabinets


then take up their earthquake kits


and march off to join


the general exodus


through predetermined escape routes


In the street a rope helps


maintain unity


and orderly wards off panic


by providing a sense of common


security within a group


Guided and patrolled by


emergency forces


a swelling flood of people from home


and factory moves toward assigned


refuge areas


To escape the giant sea wave


or tsunami


which often follows a quake


the harbor fleet sets out to sea


The drill has been a costly effort


but the price seems small compared


to the threatened loss of life


in one of the most heavily


populated areas on Earth


Eastward across the sea


this tree-shaded oasis near


California's Mojave Desert


offers deceptive sanctuary


Like Japan's thermal caldrons


it too is part of the Ring of Fire


that circles the Pacific


Here along the 700-mile San


Andreas Fault


the pacific plate grinds slowly northward


against the North American plate


sometimes locking


building stress, then suddenly


releasing in earthquake


Whether exposed as a naked scar


crossing the Carrizo Plain near


Los Angeles



11



or pleasantly disguised


under grassy slopes


and a chain of sag ponds


near San Francisco


the fault stretches like a taut


line of danger


between the state's two most


heavily populated centers


In times past each of the cities


has felt its power


Once the fabled gateway to


the gold rush


its hills crowned with ornate palaces


of mining and railroad tycoons


San Francisco today soars in a


dazzling array of skyscrapers


along its Embarcadero daring evidence


of a city that refused to die


Dr. Ballard recalls a


fateful morning


at the beginning of the century


"On the 18th of April 1906


the San Andreas Fault


suddenly snapped


The city of SAN Francisco


felt the brunt of the blow


Some 700 people were killed


and most of the city was


destroyed by fire


"Today, people think of it as an


event found in history books


Yet to geologists, the fault is


very much alive


We are monitoring the fault system


attempting to understand its behavior


predict its next move


One thing we do know


We will experience another earthquake


like that of 1906


It's just a matter of time


At dawn February 9, 1971


an earthquake registering 6.4


on the Richter scale


struck the San Fernando Valley


in Los Angeles


Twisting railroad tracks


shattering highway overpasses


it strewed disaster across


the city landscape


as if by an angry giant's hand


Like a silent accomplice


flames leaped through the wreckage


Great hospitals and other


structures collapsed


Everywhere the quake trapped


its casual human victims


When it had passed, the city counted


the cost 64 dead


in property damage


Because the water behind a weakened


dam was quickly lowered


thousands of lives were saved


which otherwise might


have been lost


In it's aftermath alarmed public


agencies radically


expanded their earthquake



12



preparations


Today not only standard


surveying methods


but a wide array of new


instruments are employed


to monitor California's


fractured landscape


Using laser beams and radio waves


from remote stars


scientists can measure the state


for crustal changes


or plate movements as small


as an inch


Along the San Andreas a network


of seismic devices


reports local changes in the release


of radioactive gas from rock strata


sudden drops in the water level


of wells


variations in gravity or the


Earth's magnetic field


Other meters detect the slightest


movement deep beneath the surface


measure strain in a locked section


of the fault


the state of California also


is checking its basement"


above which 24 million


people live


From hundreds of


instruments scattered


across the length of the state


continuous reports flow into


separate computer centers


for the southern and the


northern sectors


At the United States Geological


Survey in Menlo park


widely diverse in formation


is correlated


and condensed to provide a summary


of seismic activity


during each passing month


Like scholars trying to break


an enemy code


or decipher a lost language


scientists are trying to discern


a consistent meaning


in all the signals sent


from the Earth


Though the San Andreas remains


an enigma


a silent threat of havoc to come


sophisticated technology is


bringing closer the time


when man may be able to


predict earthquakes


with reasonable accuracy


and certainty


Scientists know


that in prediction lies a major


defense against catastrophe


Using an instrument no more


complicated than a garden hoe


one young geologist


from the California Institute of


Technology has shown


that the key to the future may lie


in the past


At excavations along the fault at



13



Pallett Creek near the Mojave


Dr. Kerry Sieh has revealed


a repeat pattern


of California quakes hundreds


of years


before any recorded history


of the region


"We are on the main trace of the


San Andreas Fault


And the layer that I just scraped


off


has been radiocarbon dated


at 1350 A.D.


The layer right


above it


which has the beautiful orange


color here


and here has a radiocarbon date near


its top of about 1560 A. D


or about the time Michelangelo was


painting the Sistine Chapel


This layer dates from about the birth


of Benjamin Franklin 1700


and this layer about right here


was the surface of the Earth


at the time of the 1857 earthquake


"Now, this is the main trace of


the San Andreas Fault running up


through these layers up though to


about here."


"Here's the 1353 A.D. layer broken


by the fault trace coming up


through the 1560 A.D. layer here


So here we have the Pacific Plate


and here we have the


North American Plate


broken only by this very narrow trace,


or plane


of the San Andreas Fault."


"And it continues on up


up through the 1700s level


and stopping at this level


the 1857 level


In 1857 there occurred the great


Fort Tejon earthquake


which was the last great earthquake


to break the San Andreas Fault


in the southern part of the state."


"Elsewhere at this site


we have exposures a total of 11


prehistoric earthquakes


and the great Fort Tejon earthquake


of 1857


The radiocarbon dates show


that the earthquakes occur


with frequency


they occur about every 145 years


It's been 125 years since the great


Fort Tejon earthquake


The chances are really quite


good that


within our lifetime


we're going to see another great


Fort Tejon earthquake."


"Give me the number of dead you


anticipate


that you are estimating


and I will try to work it out on



14



the end."


"Estimates of injured range


from 50 to 80 thousand


with an unknown number trapped in


collapsed structures


At this time the numbers of dead may


be in excess of ten thousand."


To train disaster agencies


and to alert the public the state's


Office of


Emergency Services stages


yearly drills


"I would like to clarify what's


turned out to be a rumor


of a radioactive release problem


at Cal Tech."


Alex Cunninham


director of the California Office


of Emergency Services


"The scenario for this exercise is


that an earthquake occurred


yesterday in Los Angeles


actually about 30 miles northwest


of San Bernardino


along the San Andreas Fault


Its magnitude, for exercise


purposed 8.3."


"And believe me


we are very selective


at this level on


using Guard resources


And I recommend strongly now


I can't handle a delicate issue


like this on the phone


I recommend very strongly that if


you want the Guard for this


that you are going to have to come


through bureaucratic channels."


"We need to have an update


as of this time on the number of


injuries and deaths, please."


"All the hospital beds in northern


county appear be down


Southern county looks like


they're in pretty good shape


But the Needs Assessment will be


back half an hour and will give us


all the figures."


"Hold on a second. We got to


get this together."


"The State of California is


very well prepared to


handle a moderate earthquake


And the citizens who have been


through these kind of quakes


are reasonably well prepared


But when we talk about a


catastrophic earthquake


something in the area of an 8


or an 8.3 no level of government


and particularly the


individual citizens


are prepared for such an event


It's no longer a question of if


the big earthquake is coming



15



It's simply a matter of when


Scientists are telling us


because of recent seismic activity


and other phenomena


other scientific data


that the great earthquake will strike


in southern California


some time in the next 30 years


Unfortunately, many people say well


if it's 30 years away


we don't have to worry about it


It's not 30 years away


It could happen tomorrow


it could happen today;


it could happen next month


But sometime in the next 30 years


we're going to have it


and people damn well better


prepare themselves for it."


Distantly aware of


threatened holocausts


most Los Angeles residents remain


caught in the traumas


and traffic jams of daily life


Too few know the mathematics of terror


At the time of the 1857 quake 11,000


people lived in Los Angeles


Today there are more than seven million


Many remember the impact of


the San Fernando tremor


But the 8.3 earthquake


which scientists now predict


will be a shock 800 times as strong


a natural disaster


without precedent in American history


Thirty-five hundred years ago


on the Aegean island of Santorini


these ruins too held a civilization


Here, long before the Parthenon


the maritime community of Akrotiri


created a culture


that rivaled the splendors of


nearby Minoan Crete


In frescoes artists painted


the sunlit landscapes of man


in his springtime


the years in Eden when the Earth


was filled with wonders


Upon the walls were mirrored


the ordinary tasks


and pleasures of a small world


in which the simplest acts of


everyday life held meaning


and even the gods often behaved


like noisy neighbors


Over the wide sea, returning seamen


brought strange gifts


and creatures from the shadowy lands beyond


told of odysseys across


a world still new


Now they are gone


abruptly vanished in


16



a great catastrophe


All that remain are a half-excavated


civilization under glass


a few amphoras in orderly array


life and death filed on


an index card


One of the scientists trying to


decipher the puzzle of the past


Dr. Christos Doumas of the University


of Athens leads Dr. Ballard


through the remains of a city


that died thirty-five centuries ago


"This is an ancient street leading


to the Triangle Square


flanked on the left by


the Building Delta


and on the right by the West House."


"Now here's where you


found the frescoes."


"Yes, we found frescoes


and other things which show


that we are discovering here a very


highly civilized society


of the Bronze Age."


"The houses are individual


surrounded by streets


There are several stories


as you see


and we have indoor plumbing


connected directly


with the drainage system


of the street."


"So you had a society of individual


families living together..."


"Yes. And every house was


an entity by itself."


"And here we can see how


sophisticated these houses were


The basement, as in


many of the houses


was used for storing


goods a variety of crops like barley


flour of barley


lentils, various nuts like almonds."


"So they had a pretty good diet


I mean it was varied."


"Yes. And they were consuming


also seafood


because we found shells of


sea urchins


and remains of dried fish


"The city was captured by


the earthquakes and


this staircase shows


that it was broken before the


eruption of the volcano


"So this probably caused


them to evacuate."


"Yes. It was a warning


for the people."


"And then after the earthquake


the major eruption occurred."


"Yes. It destroyed almost everything


as you sea and then the site was


covered with volcanic ash."


Before the great warning tremors


Akrotiri lay on the flank of a



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steeply sloping island


unaware that miles below


the Earth's crust was in movement


Soon after the quake


the island exploded in one of historical


prodigious volcanic eruptions


Suddenly a mountain had disappeared


its walls collapsed into a volcanic


caldera now filled


by the inrushing sea


A vast searing cloud of pumice and


ash buried Akrotiri


and surged over the Mediterranean


with an impact on history that


still is being assessed


"We're inside the caldera


Behind me are the layered walls


of the volcano


which record its long history


The black layers are basaltic


lava flows;


the red ones a tephra ejected


from the volcanic vent."


"These prehistoric layers once


formed a great volcano over


About 3,500 years ago


the entire volcano erupted destroying


over two-thirds of the island


At the top today you can see a


white layer of pumic


and ash which records


that great event


That layer is over 100 feet thick."


Human beings still cling to the


narrow rim of cliffs


that now surrounds emptiness


Today several thousand islanders


live on the heights


and fish or search for sponges


in the depths of the caldera


Steep paths link them with the ports


through which supplies


much of their fresh water


and occasional visitors arrive


by sea


Today the centers of Western


civilization


have moved far beyond Santorini


Insulated from the rumors and


alarms of a wider world


it has settled into the ways of


village life


Upon the cliffs workmen build


and repair structures using


the very ash


and pumice of the explosion


that once destroyed their island


In the fields around them


farmers tend vineyards


and reap grain planted


in the volcano soil


The pumice is even sold for profit


was once exported for the


building of the Suez Canal



18




more than a century ago


Intermittently strong tremors still


shake the island


but the widows of Santorini remain


solitary symbols of the tenacity


by which life endures


Beneath them one plate slides


under another in endless movement


even the gods may change


but prayer remains a step


in the search


for reassurance and certainty


On Good Friday


worshippers are surrounded by frescoes


that describe not the joys of life


but its tragic burdens


Yet for the devout islanders


faith holds a triumphant hope


Out of death's darkness life returns


a flame passed from candle to candle


In the ritual of twenty centuries


the villagers


again find a ancient recognition


In the Easter story of resurrection


they tell their own


After the resurrection joy


the breaking of eggs to release


the symbolic life within


Across the island


after forty days of fasting


the villagers feast and dance


The world has changed many time


since this woman lived in Santorini


Her gods have vanished


The streets on which she walked now


end in walls of ash


Yet in these dancing rhythms of life


she might hear echoes of another time


the refrains of home


Imperceptible to living generations


the change goes on


toward a future


that science's computers


already have begun to outline


By its present drift


Africa, in its clockwise movement


will close the Mediterranean


and collide with southern Europe


raising great new mountain ranges


like a rumpled rug


In Africa itself the sea at last will


flood the desert thorn trees


isolate eastern Africa


invade a domain once held by


elephants and lions


In the Americas, as elsewhere


life will be radically altered


Mecca for millions of fugitives


from the wintry East


Los Angeles may have to doctor its


swimming pools with antifreeze


Set at the edge of the Pacific Plate


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it is moving relentlessly


toward Alaska


at the rapid of two or three


inches a year


Ten million years from now


San Francisco will find


that for a time its scorned southern


rival has become a suburb


New York may become part of a


vast volcanic range


as the expanding Atlantic floor


passes under the eastern coast


Compared to Earth's history


man's tenure has be dazzling


and brief


In ten thousand years he has


created language


built cathedrals, invented the means


to destroy life one Earth


His computers can project


the destination


of continents 200 million years


from now


But where man will be none can predict


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